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Bill Allen
Guides with Mountain Trip

About

I feel lucky to have been able to create a life out of pursuing the things that I love to do for over 20 years now. I grew up playing in the Cascade Mountains of Oregon, and eventually made it up to Alaska where I found my first guiding job and eventually realized that I might be able to make a living out of it.

I’ve now been to places that I never dreamed I would ever get a chance to go, climbed all the Seven Summits twice, and stood on top of Mount Everest three times. I take great pleasure in sharing those experiences with climbers from around the world. Although I spend most of my time in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado now, Alaska is still in my blood and I’ve guided nearly 30 expeditions on Denali, and expeditions to Mount Foraker, Mount Huntington, Mount Fairweather, and many other peaks in Alaska.

I manage to get out of the Mountain Trip office just enough that I am able to work as a ski guide in the winter for both Telluride Helitrax and as part of our own backcountry ski touring program here in the San Juans. I spend my winters in Ophir, CO with my very understanding wife, Sonja, and our boy, Parker. We still spend part of each summer in Alaska running the day-to-day operations of our Denali season.

Trips

Denali West Buttress Expedition
Our West Buttress expeditions begin at 7,200 feet on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. They follow the Kahiltna north before ascending up onto the West Buttress proper. Though it’s not one of the most technical routes on the mountain, climbers must use a variety of mountaineering techniques to make their way around crevasses and up moderately steep terrain. The route culminates on summit day by following an incredible knife-edged ridge to the highest point in North America.

Denali is a place of superlatives. Carrying the heaviest pack of your life in the thin air of altitude at such a northern latitude can make West Buttress expeditions very physically challenging. Extreme winds, heavy snowfall and arctic cold all conspire to make it a serious undertaking. If you want to climb Denali, you need to be in top physical shape and prepared to suffer with a smile. To help you better prepare for the physical challenges of Denali, we provide a 24-week custom Mountaineering Training program designed by the professional coaches at Uphill Athlete to all of our Denali climbers (including guides!), so you can be confident that you will be in great shape, and your teammates will be as well.

Mountain Trip is a small company and we like it that way. It enables us to give personal, attentive service, and to provide our climbers with the most experienced guides on the mountain. No other Denali guide service has our stringent guidelines for whom we allow to lead West Buttress expeditions on the mountain. Our lead guides have a minimum of five Denali ascents under their boots—some have 20, 30, or more. Our office staff includes Denali guides who can answer your questions from their personal experience and love to talk about climbing big, cold mountains. Give us a call and climb Denali with us! All Denali expeditions are run by Mountain Trip Alaska, LLC, which is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve.


Seasonality
May-Jul

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