Akio Joy

About

I’m Akio Joy (he/him), co-owner and guide with Beartooth Mountain Guides. I grew up in the small town of Placerville, California, where I discovered climbing and skiing amid the rugged terrain of the Sierra Nevada foothills. At 17, I made my way to Montana, jumped into guiding, and once I finished college, I committed full time to sharing the mountains with others. In 2023 I earned IFMGA certification through the American Mountain Guides Association — a milestone that reflects my dedication to professionalism, partnership, and equity in the outdoors.
Over more than ten years of guiding, I’ve done everything from technical rock and ice first ascents (WI5+ and up to 5.13) to alpine climbs and big wall routes like the Shield on El Capitan. I also have a passion for ski guiding, avalanche education, and teaching technical courses. Outside of guiding, I hold a B.S. in Mathematics (with a focus in Teaching), and I’ve had the privilege of guiding in many places — from the US and Canada to the Alps, Norway, Turkey, Tanzania, and beyond.
My favorite place to recreate? Just south of the Beartooths, on the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone — there’s something about that landscape that grounds me. Whether I’m navigating ice, rock, snow, or alpine, I aim to bring others into the wild with respect, skill, humility, and joy.
Client Types
Individuals
Small groups
Experts
Akio has not recommended any gear yet.

Trips

Valle Cochamó Expedition
Overview:

Embark on an wild expedition through Chile's Cochamo Valley. With Aki, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, and Anju, a Spanish translator and experienced South American traveler, you'll be able to explore a remote valley with towering granite walls, deep in the jungle.

On this trip through Valle Cochamó, you can expect world class rock climbing, tranquillo campsites, and a proper South American experience.

This was designed for the climber looking for a unique, exotic granite climbing trip. Have you climbed in Yosemite, but found the crowds overwhelming? Do you wish there was a destination like Squamish, just in a more wild setting? Have you always wanted to climb in South America, but the glacial travel sounds unappealing? If you answered yes to any of these, then this is what you're looking for.
Although flexible, our baseline trip takes place over 10 days in Chile. With direct flights from the US to Santiago, travel is safe and easy.

The next morning, we make an early departure for the trail head. We load up the pack horses with our equipment, and take off on the casual day hike to base camp. Base camp, La Junta, is situated in the base of a Yosemite-sized glacial valley. It occupies a large series of meadows just a stones throw from the beautiful Rio Cochamo. Chocked full of climbers and South American tourists, La Junta provides an exciting international scene, all the while in an incredible setting.

From here, we have the chance to crag nearby, launch off on big walls, or make high camp in one of the hanging valleys above for day climbing objectives. The nearby cliffs vary from 20-60 minute approaches and offer a spectrum of difficulties, from beginner to expert level sport climbing in a cave. High camps involve a burly trek on climbers' trails through the jungle to reach more alpine environments. Incredible bivouacs and world class rock awaits...

Depending on your climbing background and desire, we tailor the upcoming days to provide the best experience.

During rest and rainy days, we can hike the nearby trails through the jungle, swim in the river, or just relax in the meadows at camp. The surrounding jungles are full of wonder, whether it be cascading waterfalls or ancient Alerce forests.

Once day 9 arrives, we reverse our approach, loading up the horses once again for a quick descent and celebration in town.

Seasonality
Jan-Feb

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